Design with Memory

Within the academic research activities of the Gianfranco Ferré Research Centre, the Thesis Research Internship pathway operates as an incubator for Master’s degree theses, offering students the opportunity to work directly with the historical archive and to develop experimental research proposals in the fields of representation, virtualisation, and re-materialisation applied to archival artefacts.

In this context, Design with Memory is a research project developed by Diego Dani starting from an archival garment from the Gianfranco Ferré Ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 1995–96 collection (look no. 82). The analysis of the garment, carried out through a reverse-engineering process, revealed a complex intarsia construction composed of multiple elements applied to a semi-transparent stretch tulle base, featuring continuous hand-machine chain-stitch embroidery in lurex thread, executed on the finished garment. This technique highlights Ferré’s alchemical approach to material, grounded in constant experimentation with fabrics and processes.

The project investigates the potential of knitwear as an innovative prototyping technique for the re-materialisation of the archival garment through whole-garment technology, which enables the creation of a garment in a single process. By adapting the paper pattern and drawing inspiration from the original garment’s three-dimensional, 360° conception, the research explores new production possibilities, significantly improving the process and resulting in a zero-waste prototype. Experimentation led to the selection of CoatYarn’s TPU Evolution®️ thermoplastic polyurethane yarn in three shades which, when subjected to thermal treatment, reproduce the precious quality of the original silver lurex embroidery while ensuring greater comfort and elasticity.

The final prototype is produced using Emilcotoni’s Superpiuma®️ yarn; the development of the knit stitch was carried out using programming software and Shima Seiki knitting machines. The prototyping phase was overseen by Maglieria Lattanzi, while the activation of CoatYarn’s TPU Evolution®️ yarn was managed by ZERO1.

The project was also exhibited at Pitti Immagine Filati (January 28–30, 2025), within the Shima Seiki Italia space, as an example of advanced research in the dialogue between knitwear techniques and design innovation processes.