Prêt-à-porter Donna
Spring/Summer
“I let myself be enticed by a desire for holiday, for relaxation and enjoyment. That invigorating sense of ease one might associate with a crossing aboard a cutter, sails fully set, ploughing the Atlantic towards Punta del Este. Or the exhilaration of a free, intoxicating night, lit only by the fires of a ‘fiesta gitana’. To narrate this desire, I played with opposites. Or rather, with values that differ yet coexist without contradiction in today’s femininity: sensuality and composure, restraint and momentum, energy and sweetness…”
Gianfranco Ferré
2007
Simplifying – and above all reducing – shapes and proportions, without relinquishing the discipline of precise construction or the inclination towards magic. Jackets take the form of unprecedented micro-cabans, spencers and boleros in firm cotton gabardine. They are worn over athletic jersey tank tops. They always reveal the marks of tailoring: impeccable cuts, unique finishes, hand-executed stitching. Formal clarity is reflected in chromatic essentiality: basic, neutral tones combined to energise garments with graphic impact. As in the Dadaist slogans embroidered on sweatshirts. Or in the trompe-l’œil coats of arms and iconographies borrowed from Argentine polo clubs, which on T-shirts become decoration, embellishment, evocative surplus.
The small cocktail dresses carry the allure of lingerie. They are made of glossy satin, crushed and lived-in. Even leather is worked like fabric, alchemically light and luminous, with the sheen of dessous satin.
In the kaleidoscope of colours, midnight blue meets dense brown, red contrasts with citron yellow, optic white with ivory… because, when evening falls and light softens, the solar pleasure of relaxation inevitably gives way to an instinctive inclination towards languor and joy, mystery and enchantment.
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Prêt-à-porter Donna
Fall/Winter
“I imagined embarking on a sort of journey – or rather, a ‘promenade’ – beginning with an intention of androgyny and evolving, transforming, until it became a declaration of respect and unconditional passion for femininity. Marked by a sense of ease and freedom, yet also by surprises and alchemical impulses, I conceived this collection as an exploration of my femininity – severe and measured, yet without renouncing enchantment, especially when the busy rhythm of day gives way to the languor of evening…”
Gianfranco Ferré
2007
Matter is infused with my now-familiar inclination towards alchemy, miracle and deliberate illusion, which brings reality close to – and almost confuses it with – dream. Silk, virtually weightless, is tightly crinkled until it resembles Chinese lantern paper. Albino cashmere coexists harmoniously with cotton in the hand-edged trench coat. Leather, much like the metal of the small evening bags, reveals a richly textured surface and an unusual depth, achieved through laser cutting and triple layering.
The chromatic score is as carefully calibrated as it is capable of surprising – as restrained as it is vibrant. It ranges from black to nuances of albino camel, from the ever-present red to the indefinite shades of moss, all the way to the palest and most delicate lilac. Also renewed and rediscovered is a longstanding passion of mine – the shimmer of metals: gold and silver, pewter and titanium – which lends a luminous quality to almost everything, to nearly every material, from denim to brocade, from nappa to silk…
To eveningwear are also applied the rules of a graceful, flattering severity, setting the brilliance of embroideries, encrustations and laminations against harmoniously simple lines and volumes, gently rounded and animated by pleats falling with an almost hieratic poise.
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