Prêt-à-porter Donna
Spring/Summer
“Simplicity is the most important value. The goal of a research process that for me means rejecting all obviousness, consciously exploring new and coherent paths, enthusiastically yielding to impulses and experimentation… precisely to ignite my new collection with momentum and to underline its identity, I chose to traverse it entirely with a single decorative element that refers to the aesthetic experience of Vittorio Zecchin, who absorbed the lesson of the Secession into forms that were absolutely personal. His graphic-pictorial modules possess a strikingly contemporary charge – that of seriality, of almost obsessive reiteration – heightened by bold, overwhelming chromatic choices”.
Gianfranco Ferré
2004
These modules were reinterpreted in different dimensions and proportions and rendered through diverse means to animate forms and materials, playing between elementary geometries – above all the circle and the rectangle – and meticulous constructions. Executed in pure fabrics or through technical interpretations, all absolutely equivalent in nobility and appeal. Thus the same ‘mark’ sparks the colorful allover prints; it defines inlays on leather; it ia laser-cut; it fashions the embroidery or jet, tone on tone or in contrast. And it shows up in the mother-of-pearl ornamenting accessories too.
The intensity of colour prevailed, especially red in all its modulations. Khaki, navy and burgundy were given the sheen of a lustrous material such as satin. Even grey – that of the “well-bred” suit in stretch georgette and denim or in iridescent silk diagonal – takes on a pearly, airy luminosity.
For evening, the immediacy of certain geometries acquires a special, almost fantastical emphasis. In skirts, the circle lengthens towards the ground in hints of a train. In bodices, by contrast, the circle overturns, opens into a wheel, a fan, a corolla, rising upwards. The organza blouse is small and short at the waist yet fragments around the shoulders into a play of frothy cut-outs that seem produced by the most skilful scissors in weightless tissue paper.
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Prêt-à-porter Donna
Fall/Winter
“Every word turns into its opposite, every concept into its antithesis: colour-non-colour, classic yet not classic. From this tension emerges a dancing, decidedly feminine silhouette, with skirts always swaying – yet always precise at the knee – to articulate, with an irresistible imprint of glamour and eccentricity, the manners and logics of dressing. One sense, strongly, a sort of sporting obsession that influences and reinterprets the codes of urban elegance, conveying a feeling of freshness even in the cold season”.
Gianfranco Ferré
2004
Intentionally, classic typologies have been rethought so that they do not appear predictable.
To construct, to create movement, to accompany the natural fluidity of the figure, equal attention has been devoted to the consistency and suppleness of materials.
And as always, research and invention lead into alchemy, illusion, dazzling effects, in the pursuit of what is forbidden. In the suit, the spotted coat of the jaguar is reproduced through hand-painted pony skin. When it is not authentic, crocodile – a true fetish and recurring decorative leitmotif – returns in scale-like embroideries of paillettes, jet, even plaques of pure plastic. For evening, jersey combines with stitched satin, voile and tulle, with lace inlays, encrustations and glittering “alligator” effects.
Non-colours reveal a singular depth: absolute black and winter blue, set alongside green, petroleum, grey and brick. With the unexpected accent of fluorescent, signal-like, energetic tones, reserved for details and for the most magical materials, such as crocodile.
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