Prêt-à-porter Donna
Spring/Summer

“It is a collection of opposites, expressing extreme feelings: it steals femininity even from the institutional pieces of the male wardrobe; it seeks adventure while underscoring a need for affectionate protection, like a long embrace, a delicate caress. It heightens intentions, sensually covering or revealing when there is a desire for dancing fluidity around the body… with the precise aim of sustaining the game of seduction, yet also with a kind of passionate sweetness”.  

Gianfranco Ferré

1998

Figures. Contours soften into scalloped profiles. The bodice appears and disappears at the back; the shirt in cotton voile or organza is small and tender. The body is outlined, at every breath of wind, beneath the wide parachute-silk jumpsuit. Skirts, very long or very short, emphasise the fragile stem of the legs. 

Elegances. The flared linen duster coat, unlined, narrow at the shoulders and wide at the hem. The washed organza shirt, finished with almost festooned ‘chiacchierino’ lace, worn over ultra-light, waxed suede trousers. Flat mannish shoes in raw canvas, and vertiginous heels with a tapered Concorde toe. 

Materials. Technical nylon mesh, impalpable coloured python, nylon bonded with cotton organza (also for military-style jackets), striped stretch taffeta (for shirts draping around the figure), soft lacquered suede. Point d’esprit voile, like childhood dresses. Laser-embroidered cut-outs, silk jacquard layered over transparent nylon. 

Suggestions. For evening, layers of ruches, metallised plissés, starched borders that hold the magic of precious silk sheets. 

Reflections. The candour of white; beige fading into sand tones. Absolute black. Pink, from pale coral to the golden hue known as “desert rose”. 

EXCERPT FROM THE COLLECTION PRESS RELEASE

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Prêt-à-porter Donna
Fall/Winter

“A magical taste for reality, a strong need for poetry, escapes within the everyday… the attitude is natural, the bearing free and easy. Couture complacencies are banished. Because the cut is fluid, elementary, almost futuristic. Ancient and absolutely unprecedented at the same time… everything is graceful, airy, thanks to impalpable colours and metallised nuances. The body moves with natural elasticity in magical, flowing, plastic materials that evoke a dream. An impression of sweetness and strength”. 

Gianfranco Ferré

1998

Magics. By manipulating shadows, volumes and textures – not to represent reality but to transfigure it – black becomes liquid: minute pleats seem glued to the body with pitch, then left to float freely. Black turns more matte than sandpaper, or multifaceted through the thousand scales of galuchat. 

Allusions. Tricot scales compose a silvery, transparent cardigan worn over bare skin. Siren-like, warrior-like. Impalpable white shirts torn into threads of silk and mohair, evanescent silver prints. Pure, sinuous dresses, like robes in velvet and metallised lace, interrupted by almost razor-sharp cuts. 

Illusions. Cardigans with double alpaca collars, more effervescent than fur. Fantastic spotted pony skin, almost the result of impossible unions. Shoes in fabric and scale, slender pumps with metal patches – a flash at every step – glossy vinyl soles, feet tapered by light. 

Wonders. Barrel coats, sculptural blousons and bomber jackets, variously padded at different points of the body. Pinstripe and cheviot fabrics illuminated by the stylised note of a white shirt or by the silvery splendour of a grey taffeta blouse. Accents of absolute black, mineral grey, cadmium red. Hyperlight jeans like thin sheets of metal: pewter, aluminium, platinum. Softened by lingerie of metallic consistency, in gold and bronze. 

EXCERPT FROM THE COLLECTION PRESS RELEASE

Look n. 7
Look n. 35
Look n. 62
Look n. 64 and 65
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Look n. 79
Look n. 93
Look n. 92tris
Look n. 107