Prêt-à-porter Donna
Spring/Summer

“When designing this collection, I asked myself which features I had absorbed while moving forward – almost unwittingly – on the journey begun toward the East… because it is an instinctive route, starting from the recognition of different needs and stimuli: energy, therefore red. Purity, therefore white. Balance, therefore red and blue. Silence, therefore the soft step and flat shoes in quilted fabric – with elastic sole or in three layers of buffalo. All that is pure in itself: like the body, revealed in its strength and in its nudity”. 

Gianfranco Ferré

1986

To exalt the body, new technologies were introduced: developing a double jersey in linen, viscose and wool; using leather for its natural elastic containment; employing double cotton jersey to create simple T-shirt dresses, softly cinched at the waist by a band in the same fabric. 

The process advanced through associations, without following a logical sequence, creating echoes and crossings: the leather T-shirt dress, sleeveless and with a bare back; the black jacket vaguely reminiscent of a judoka, tied at the waist with a blue belt; the Mao-style suit and the kimono-over-jacket in ivory-and-porcelain motifs, lined with dotted silk; the red dress reduced to its minimum, with two wide straps on the back; and the precious suit, like an antique lacquer box in red and blue, double-printed over a black satin bustier. 

And for evening, a parade of unique pieces with the rhythm and breath of Eastern fables: the red mannish jacket over the pleated skirt in Chinese screen prints; the Mao suit with gigantic, polychrome designs; the trompe-l’œil one-piece of men’s shirt and pleated chiffon skirt; the puzzle dress with a single sleeve, which fits in one hand. 

EXCERPT FROM THE COLLECTION PRESS RELEASE

Look n. 14
Look n. 36
Look n. 39
Look n. 58 and 57
Look n. 63
Look n. 65
Look n. 91
Look n. 98
Look n. 102 and 103
Look n. 108 and 109

Prêt-à-porter Donna
Fall/Winter

“Naturalness carried to the point of severity, a free and liberated sense of glamour: in designing this collection I moved between these two extremes – one the logical consequence of the other. I freed the gestures – opening the shirt, eliminating buttons, cinching the waist with a ribbon – and shaped a very intense image which entrusts its femininity to attitudes, to movement. Which draws attention to the belt. But without nostalgia, without retro effects. Because I am interested in constructing a new tradition, looking at the canonical elements of the wardrobe with a different logic”. 

Gianfranco Ferré

1986

Contrasts, exaggerations and a vivid sense of material: cashmere in cashmere tones; the mordoré and gold shades of long-haired alpaca mohair and of glove nappa. Natural nuances, yet perfectly urban. A festive (and sumptuous) palette of corals and reds, with the brilliance of noble fabrics: mohair, iridescent raw silk, organza. Monochrome interpreted: each material with its own shade. 

Transpositions and interpretations: the cardigan becomes a mohair coat; the jumpsuit transforms into a straight black dress with hidden zip and high collar; the shirt expands until it assumes the size of a coat; pullovers’ collars lengthen – or widen – immeasurably; the hyperrealist prints decorating T-shirts and blouses reach gigantic dimensions, justifying cuts and recuts. Moiré, faille, precious lamé (made with “falling” or spiral threads, a 1920s technique). 

EXCERPT FROM THE COLLECTION PRESS RELEASE

Look n. 1
Look n. 21 and 20
Look n. 35 e 36
Look n. 44
Look n. 77, 78 and 79
Look n. 87
Look n. 96
Look n. 97 and 98
Look n. 113
Look n. 120