Women's Ready-to-wear
Spring/Summer

“When designing this collection, I asked myself which features I had absorbed while moving forward – almost unwittingly – on the journey begun toward the East… because it is an instinctive route, starting from the recognition of different needs and stimuli: energy, therefore red. Purity, therefore white. Balance, therefore red and blue. Silence, therefore the soft step and flat shoes in quilted fabric – with elastic sole or in three layers of buffalo. All that is pure in itself: like the body, revealed in its strength and in its nudity”. 

Gianfranco Ferré

1986

To exalt the body, new technologies were introduced: developing a double jersey in linen, viscose and wool; using leather for its natural elastic containment; employing double cotton jersey to create simple T-shirt dresses, softly cinched at the waist by a band in the same fabric. 

The process advanced through associations, without following a logical sequence, creating echoes and crossings: the leather T-shirt dress, sleeveless and with a bare back; the black jacket vaguely reminiscent of a judoka, tied at the waist with a blue belt; the Mao-style suit and the kimono-over-jacket in ivory-and-porcelain motifs, lined with dotted silk; the red dress reduced to its minimum, with two wide straps on the back; and the precious suit, like an antique lacquer box in red and blue, double-printed over a black satin bustier. 

And for evening, a parade of unique pieces with the rhythm and breath of Eastern fables: the red mannish jacket over the pleated skirt in Chinese screen prints; the Mao suit with gigantic, polychrome designs; the trompe-l’œil one-piece of men’s shirt and pleated chiffon skirt; the puzzle dress with a single sleeve, which fits in one hand. 

Excerpts from the collection press release

Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 1986, look n. 14, model Robin Osler.
Look n. 14
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 1986, look n. 36.
Look n. 36
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 1986, look n. 39, model Ann Fiona.
Look n. 39
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 1986, Looks n. 58 and 57. Model Gail Elliot.
Looks n. 58 and 57
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 1986, Look n. 63.
Look n. 63
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 1986, Look n. 65. Model Susanna Linsmayer.
Look n. 65
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 1986, Look n. 91.
Look n. 91
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 1986, Look n. 98. Modella Anna Bayle.
Look n. 98
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 1986, Looks n. 102 and 103.
Looks n. 102 and 103
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 1986, Looks n. 108 and 109.
Looks n. 108 and 109

Women's Ready-to-wear
Fall/Winter

“Naturalness carried to the point of severity, a free and liberated sense of glamour: in designing this collection I moved between these two extremes – one the logical consequence of the other. I freed the gestures – opening the shirt, eliminating buttons, cinching the waist with a ribbon – and shaped a very intense image which entrusts its femininity to attitudes, to movement. Which draws attention to the belt. But without nostalgia, without retro effects. Because I am interested in constructing a new tradition, looking at the canonical elements of the wardrobe with a different logic”. 

Gianfranco Ferré

1986

Contrasts, exaggerations and a vivid sense of material: cashmere in cashmere tones; the mordoré and gold shades of long-haired alpaca mohair and of glove nappa. Natural nuances, yet perfectly urban. A festive (and sumptuous) palette of corals and reds, with the brilliance of noble fabrics: mohair, iridescent raw silk, organza. Monochrome interpreted: each material with its own shade. 

Transpositions and interpretations: the cardigan becomes a mohair coat; the jumpsuit transforms into a straight black dress with hidden zip and high collar; the shirt expands until it assumes the size of a coat; pullovers’ collars lengthen – or widen – immeasurably; the hyperrealist prints decorating T-shirts and blouses reach gigantic dimensions, justifying cuts and recuts. Moiré, faille, precious lamé (made with “falling” or spiral threads, a 1920s technique). 

Excerpts from the collection press release

Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 1986-87, look n. 1, model Betty Lago.
Look n. 1
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 1986-87, look n. 21 and 20, models Robin Osler and Shawn.
Look n. 21 and 20
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 1986-87, look n. 35 and 36, models B. Biggy and Marpessa Hennink.
Look n. 35 and 36
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 1986-87, look n. 44.
Look n. 44
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 1986-87, look n. 77, 78 and 79.
Look n. 77, 78 and 79
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 1986-87, look n. 87. Model Lynne Koester.
Look n. 87
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 1986-87, look n. 96. Model Elena Kountoura.
Look n. 96
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 1986-87, look n. 97 and 98.
Look n. 97 and 98
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 1986-87, look n. 113. Model Lynne Koester.
Look n. 113
Gianfranco Ferré Women’s Ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 1986-87, look n. 120. Model Pat Cleveland.
Look n. 120