Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Spring/Summer
“I believe that, in contemporary menswear, order and disorder are only apparently opposing poles. Rule and disobedience are attitudes and qualities that coexist without friction, compensating and interpenetrating one another with complete naturalness, giving rise to a relaxed elegance – a way of being that becomes style and can avoid conforming to fashion. With intelligence and awareness, a man knows how to disassemble and recombine the elements of his wardrobe. By instinct and with irony, he seeks novelty without ever renouncing the codes that have always belonged to him. Renewing and rediscovering: reduced to its essence, this could truly be the motto defining a behaviour of absolute linearity”.
Gianfranco Ferré
2006
The chromatic progression speaks of antitheses that dissolve into assonances. It suggests a sense of uniformity that nonetheless allows for multiple variations on the theme, as simple as they are sophisticated. The summer leitmotif is white. Never obvious or monotonous, but modulated and nuanced. One white – the purest and most luminous – stands in contrast to black. Another, more muted and restrained, is paired with carob brown. Yet another is combined with grey.
According to a similar logic, material choices move between singular oppositions and unexpected harmonies, between surprising lightness and decisive substance. The typologies are tried and tested, entirely natural: wool and cotton, silk and linen. Differences in texture are decisive in determining the cut and fit of each garment. Quality is always paramount. “180s” wool and extralight cashmere possess the lightness of canvas and shape weightless jackets. Sea Island cotton – the finest in the world – constructs a summer parka that seems to defy gravity.
Mixing, interpreting, playing. Or adding and subtracting to reinvent the essential evening ‘masquerade’ jackets: always sumptuous, made of layers upon layers of organza, multiplied and superimposed, then cut, perforated, embroidered and inlaid. With an indescribably magical camouflage effect.
EXCERPT FROM THE COLLECTION PRESS RELEASE
Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Fall/Winter
“I am convinced that style today must be a tool for self-expression and for expressing one’s way of living. It is in this perspective that the new collection should be read, moving between established codes of elegance and lived emotions, between intentional signs of rigour and deliberate declarations of eccentricity, which refer not only to historical custom but also to an attitude of disobedience. Working through asides and counterpoints, I have thus designed a sensible and balanced collection, for a man free to choose how and what he wants to be. A man who is, first and foremost, an individual and a person, and who could calmly state: ‘I will never be anyone, but no one will ever be like me’”.
Gianfranco Ferré
2006
In this collection, habitual formulas are redefined according to a logic of originality and contemporaneity, placing the emphasis on the excellence of materials and construction, and on the calm modulation of colour, which leaves room for refinement and for a declared sense of preciousness.
Materials. Albino camel wool, precious for its rarity. Ultralight cashmere. Technical silk. Cotton, for its natural quality. The most distinctive furs: palomino mink, coyote, spitz beaver. Precious leathers: micro-scale crocodile, ostrich, kangaroo.
Colours. Restrained, relaxed, dense, luminous, nuanced, urban, natural; black, brown, white, pepper, ultralight camel.
EXCERPT FROM THE COLLECTION PRESS RELEASE