To give life to and articulate this calm, impeccable attitude, a range of materials and colours of reassuring refinement has been employed. The raw wool of peacoats in a deep, matte blue, evoking a quiet seafaring life, a cruise between the North Sea and the Baltic, between Sylt and Travemünde. Heavily beaten Chinese gabardine, again in blue or black. Once more blue and black in yarn-dyed cotton for polo shirts and sweaters. Canvas, between ivory and cream, recalling the bricklayer’s uniform. The ultra-natural denim of indigo jeans worn beneath ribbon-knit tops. Black taffeta for the lightweight windbreaker. A light pinstripe shirting fabric for a suit of singular aplomb. Silk and linen for white shirts, with rounded collars extended into a swallowtail shape. 

Even the alchemical variations of the material, the architecture of the garments and their distinctive signs respond to a logic of relaxed refinement, even of gentleness. The leather of the jackets has the weight and suppleness of glove leather, and from gloves it also borrows elements of construction, with ribs, seams and stitching running lengthwise. 

Minutely precious, embroideries, inlays and motifs of exotic butterflies or bellflowers decorate the evening shirts: always and absolutely white, to be paired with trousers no less white, chosen precisely because they are more unconventional than traditional black eveningwear. 

The shapes and proportions of jackets and coats are recalibrated, making them leaner and anatomically closer to the body: without exaggeration, the trouser rise is lowered to accentuate the figure’s ease; in shirts, the importance of the collar is heightened, rising with a more pronounced presence. 

Red, light blue and dark brown come together in leather blousons, small and structured like the doublets of swordsmen or the jackets of cavalrymen. In its winter density, brown reveals unexpected nuances. Precisely because of this versatility, it is used to define materials that are very different from one another: washed and rewashed velvets, loden, ultra-pressed felts, boiled wools. Even black takes on unusual connotations. It appears slightly faded and matte in textures borrowed from workwear. It becomes satin-like in nylon, which, furrowed and reinforced with rubber and metal elements, creates jackets and parkas reminiscent of armour. 

For evening, a play of oppositions: the neo-tuxedo and the embroidered shirt, but also extraordinary “masquerade” jackets, composed of a multitude of different fabrics – coloured, damasked, embroidered – joined vertically by wide bands of iridescent velvet. Jackets that appear like period pieces, authentic one-offs, conceived for a timeless dandy, romantic and unapologetically bold.