Thus, any army emphasis is deliberately removed from the military reference, favouring calibrated touches instead: a khaki shirt worn with byssus trousers; extra-wide trousers with a linen blazer in abraded indigo tones. Or denim blue for trousers and certain shirts, surprising because made in wild tussah, frayed and stained. 

Marking every step with the imprint of quality and luxury, the toughness and energy of the biker jacket are reinterpreted: lived-in, aged, splashed with mud, yet precious because made in anaconda, crocodile or nappa, unexpectedly shifted into soft tones of pink, beige, camel and grey. In the same way, the rough practicality of the racing-driver jacket is softened through parachute silk doubled with jersey, ultralight nappa paired with viscose and silk. And, to free it from the logic of seasonality, the cashmere jacket is worn over a simple T-shirt. 

To loosen the forms, the interiors of shoulder pads and paddings are hollowed out, leaving only a slight gathering at the shoulder, which gives the jacket line an absolute naturalness. In keeping with a radical logic, the jacket is deliberately oversized: not simply loose, but at least a couple of sizes larger. Or, alternatively, decidedly dry and slim, to the point of seeming like a lining on the body. 

Moving beyond obvious typologies, the formal and the informal are fused in an unusual way, assigning technical–sport features to the hyper-classic pieces of the male wardrobe. At the same time, the need to cover, to warm, to protect from sub-zero temperatures is underlined. Thus, the customary city overcoat is padded, with an interior in thermal insulating material. 

With deliberate intent, signs of normality, declarations of eccentricity and alchemical manipulations are brought together. Black is mixed with grey in an unusual yet consciously rigorous manner. Traditional lodens in shades of brown and fog grey, but also velvets and fustians in tartan versions, are paired with camouflage prints in pony skin. Severe midnight-blue evening jackets with high, closed lapels are combined with coats in heavy stretch cotton canvas padded with burgundy leather. These are the signs of a highly personal elegance.