Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Spring/Summer
“A matured awareness of a free way of being, of living with one’s own body, of shaping it in order to be dynamic, energetic, as fast as reality requires. Thus, everything that is worn must adapt to the elasticity and ease inherent in all physical activity. In designing this collection, I wanted to devote particular attention to the anatomical construction of the human body, which through a natural transformation is becoming longer and more refined. I studied the plastic precision of muscle groups, following their movement through cuts and shapes that emphasise the structure, made more stylised by the use of jersey and stretch fabrics”.
Gianfranco Ferré
2000
A new taste in form. Taut and compact, the line appears to gain speed, with long, slim trousers that highlight the muscles of the legs. With a sculpted jacket that rests firmly on the shoulders yet slides over the chest, as a garment much closer to the skin might do. The entire figure appears recalibrated: stronger, more solid, more elongated. Sensual in an unusual way, recalling the lean, dry images of the heroes of early epic western films.
New logics of quality. Thick leather, tanned on both sides, perforated and patchworked, or lined in silk to enhance wearability. Taffeta crossed by metal threads that gently ripple the surface. Silk in its various expressions: from the faille of the jacket drawn in by narrowings, to the tussah of the raincoat that becomes almost a burnous. Lightened, fluid linen for the duster-redingote.
A new taste for detail. Seamless tubular knitwear (using the same method as underwear), but with extremely fine, invisible zips through which the body appears.
A new sense of colour. Brown darker than ebony, softened by amber and orange tones, immersed in honey and mellowed by light.
EXCERPT FROM THE COLLECTION PRESS RELEASE
Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Fall/Winter
“As a child, poised between imagination and design, I always associated the idea of the future with an extreme and powerful image: helmets, heavy shoes, suits that erase the body. From those distant visions, filtered and refined, there remains my conviction that the future can provide objects that safeguard and protect, yet are also human – shaped according to the culture of the body and studied to make it both stronger and more beautiful. Consciously and deliberately, the man for whom these garments are created has for years devoted increasing time to cultivating his body and is capable of taking pleasure in himself”.
Gianfranco Ferré
2000
The Ferré man chooses real clothes: for excellence, for their sartorial construction, for the suppleness with which they adapt to form and movement. He equips them to suit his own needs – moving fast, cutting through traffic, living in the city – with anatomical supports that can be removed with a single strip of Velcro: chest protectors, knee pads, arm guards. Devices that streamline and reinforce garments that would once have been considered formal, but which are now simply “skin”, the masculine uniform. Always in fabrics of the highest quality and comfort, sometimes stretch, sometimes crêpe.
According to a personal code of freedom and naturalness, the body is intentionally covered with fabrics that resemble knitwear and cashmere velvet, supple and close-fitting. Everything appears relaxed, yet governed by a sense of education in both attitude and dress.
An equilibrium that is also subtly eccentric, suggested by a belt, a velvet pullover, a velvet shoe with a rubber sole. An emphasis that never risks becoming ostentation, even when interiors of genuine fur are introduced – sumptuous and imaginative. The colours are civil, urban: deep putty blue, black verging on green, the warm tone of vicuña. All driven by a precise intention to take pleasure in oneself, never yielding to the disorder of casualness.
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