Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Spring/Summer
“If I had to define this collection, I would say that it is permeated by a conscious sense of freedom and by a clear, deliberate will toward virility. But without excess, without exaggeration. Everything is observed through the gaze of someone who appropriates, autonomously, formulas, codes and aesthetic forms with a strong Mediterranean imprint. I like to stress the word Mediterranean because it contains a certain sweetness, a wise simplicity, a calm that belongs to us. Out of a sense of civilisation and a desire to be civil, escaping the suffocation of a single past, a single culture, whose effect is, paradoxically, a lack of culture”.
Gianfranco Ferré
1998
There is an appropriate and natural sense of the body and of its structure, and at the same time a desire for freedom and a refusal of any constraint, instinctively favouring fuller shapes.
Having moved beyond minimalism, the search for elementariness expresses itself in the specificity of fabrics, reinterpreting in an unprecedented way materials such as organzine, used even for suits, T-shirts and jumpsuits. Or by resorting to blends of gabardine and silk with iridescent effects, softened by a veil of opacity. Or again to cotton chambray, which allows different formulas of dressing to coexist.
Ranges of Mediterranean colours come together: dense and dark tones of earth, walls and rock; lighter hues such as sandy greys and dawn white; washed-out blues, like skies at early morning.
Within the denim horizon, strong signs of innovation appear: the use of lacquered chambray, ultralight and mixed with a taffeta yarn for shirts, and above all the use of hemp. With this pure, vegetal fibre – extremely resistant to wear and intrinsically ecological – jeans, shirts and jackets have been created, washed and rewashed so that the hand becomes soft and lived-in. Without dyeing, in order to preserve its natural colour.
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Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Fall/Winter
“Envisioning a collection, a men’s collection today, for me means expressing a radical and severe will toward cleanliness: shaping the material, consolidating certain forms and varying others, eliminating references that are too deliberately stated. Like a certain neo-dandyism, certain aesthetic complacencies that end up generating nothing but uniforms: the ‘young man’s’ uniform, the ‘beautiful man’s’ uniform, the ‘gym-trained’ uniform. Whereas clothing, I believe, should be elementary and easy, endowed with that reasoned spontaneity which allows for even opposing choices: much/little, lean/full”.
Gianfranco Ferré
1998
It becomes natural to live with a black stretch turtleneck or crew-neck pullover, whose fit – close to the body or more ample – changes according to one’s way of being and behaving. It becomes natural for the jacket to lengthen or shorten, moving closer to the body, transforming itself into a practical overcoat: long enough to protect from the cold and to provide the comfort of a coat, which it effectively replaces. It is natural, in a future where conditions, temperatures and places increasingly influence dressing less and less, to move from the hyper-technical – almost spacesuit-like elements – to the neutral, the primary and even the primitive, to the timeless: like old fishermen’s windbreakers from the North. It is natural to relegate colour to purely individual choices, camouflaging oneself in indefinite, barely definable tones reminiscent of workwear, from faded black to grey-green. And it is natural, for protection, to resort to unusual plastified effects that alter the texture and tones of alpaca and cashmere.
EXCERPT FROM THE COLLECTION PRESS RELEASE