Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Spring/Summer
“People of the sea, yet immersed in the urban landscape of a hypothetical, more modern city; within the intense atmosphere of a port and its encounters, I have ideally set this collection. In this borderline place, where the frontier means mixture, contamination, fantasies of people, journeys and memories, traditions and formalities have taken root, alongside certain freedoms and deliberate exotic touches. I followed a path where different stories mingle and sidestep one another, intertwining spontaneously: the perfect seafaring gentleman meets the eccentric, the military shades into the technical, the diver’s suit echoes in essential garments”.
Gianfranco Ferré
1995
Forms are closer to the body, more contained. Menswear is revisited by accentuating shapes, seeking the whiteness of sailor uniforms, mixing the familiarity of sporty colours. The severity of behaviour and of form is underlined, reinterpreted across a range that moves from workwear towards more technical solutions.
Colour is dominated by blues, in shades suggested by different cultures: Chinese blue and Mediterranean blue; the blue of Persian lacquers, edging towards violet; Genoa blue and indigo. Alongside these, the hues of jute and hemp, signalling reds that verge on the phosphorescent, and wild, enigmatic motifs somewhere between forest imagery and mosaics.
Materials are full-bodied yet airy, allowing the summer breeze to pass through. Linen printed on the reverse, recalling jute in appearance while remaining light in substance. Worked crêpes. Seersucker obtained from tubular or embossed fabrics. Lightweight viscose, often unlined, for jackets. Openwork knitwear, frequently paired with fabrics that imitate the tricot effect. Leather that appears embossed, wrung, almost crushed.
EXCERPT FROM THE COLLECTION PRESS RELEASE
Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Fall/Winter
“I am drawn to the harsh wind of the East. To the vital force it carries with it, to the drive towards the future that still preserves instincts of roughness and spontaneity. In this past that becomes present, I identified the roots of certain elementary forms, ultra-anatomical, close to the body. Fabrics that appear dense and coarse, yet are in fact soft and light. I infused an almost ascetic, severe spirit, evoking Spartan attitudes, softened by the comfort of collarless shirts and felted flannels. By alternating energy and release, purity and richness, I have designed a figure with the vigour of Russian gymnasts or certain acrobatic dancers”.
Gianfranco Ferré
1995
A taste for traditional dressing. Small, rounded shapes moulded around the body, yet always relaxed and elongated. Dense, tubular textiles constructed from puffed yarns such as chenille blended with wool crêpe. Rich pinstripes with raised chenille threads in vivid colours.
Memories of a uniform. Officers of the Baltic fleet, students of the St Petersburg Ballet School, guardsmen, pilots, steelworkers: a masculine vocabulary inherited from discipline and function, reinterpreted and softened through relaxed leisure wear.
The surprise of colour. Earth and fog, brown and grey. The brilliance of precious tones: cobalt, lapis lazuli, malachite, lacquer red. The same intense notes recur, almost as allegories, in tartans and Prince of Wales checks.
A lively taste for decoration. A renewed sense of ornament reclaims patterns and motifs with historical resonance, between the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Naturally, without excess, imaginative touches appear even in the most sober wardrobe: iridescent jacquard linings that lend opulence to pinstriped jackets. Small checks and Prince of Wales patterns paired with brocades recall the elegance of certain Russian émigrés or turn-of-the-century dandies. Vanity and enduring quality, softened by the patina of time and wear.
EXCERPT FROM THE COLLECTION PRESS RELEASE