Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Spring/Summer
“I find fascinating the technology of the deep-sea diving suit: the utmost in technical design to move with the utmost naturalness. Following this intuition, I tried to rummage through an imaginary trunk, among uniforms of the past and instruments of the future. I plunged uniforms into a blue that becomes black and into a blue that turns turquoise. Into sea water that streaks and lightens, into salinity that singes. Among nets, coats of arms, rubber. I continue my research into the natural, in the sense of what has always belonged to man, whether the result of nature or of a technological transformation”.
Gianfranco Ferré
1992
Within this atmosphere, nylon netting filters electric colours inspired by diving equipment.
The navy blue regatta sweatshirt breaks down into a marsupium pouch to be tied at the waist.
The windbreaker features a silk poplin hood that can be folded and hidden inside the pocket.
Cabans and raincoats are transformed through rubberising and “talc-ing”, a process similar to that used before storing a diving suit.
In contrast, almost deliberately stiff forms, impeccable and proper.
The shirt that appears starched, the formal double-breasted jacket, tailored blazers, white as pure, clean, washed.
Soft fabrics with a dense, pleasing body: tussah, heavy linen, double crêpe, loose-weave linen.
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Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Fall/Winter
“An inner world of culture and habits is transformed into an elementary simplicity, where the signs of human history can be read. A sense of travel – through cities and highly civilised countryside – heightens a desire for a sense of a pleased clan: friends among themselves, affinities of taste and emotion that do not necessarily coincide with a single way of being. Differences set side by side, lived with awareness of origins, traditions and the future. Because the world of man is so complex that, to find one’s way again, a root is needed, a necessity”.
Gianfranco Ferré
1992
Responding to an unspoken need for flexibility and ease. Jackets, sometimes without collars, as comfortable as sweaters. In full-bodied tweeds and tartans; in silk and brushed cashmere blends; in double-faced fabrics, soft to the touch yet rough in appearance.
The entire collection unfolds under the sign of dualism. Silk chenille, full yet extremely light. Leather garments with quilted linings that appear voluminous yet feel almost weightless when worn.
In the colours of always: pale grey, asphalt, leaf green mixed with camel. And in heraldic tones, like coats of arms: yellow, France blue, banner red.
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