Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Spring/Summer
“I followed my feelings. A secret thread linking one emotion to another, governed more by the logic of taste than by reason. Thus, in this collection, feelings that are in some way related come to the surface: softness, clarity, a freshness that is interior before becoming exterior. A lightness that sometimes translates into form, at other times into fabric.
The classical values of menswear remain firm, indisputable reference points of an education, but without rigid schemes or categories. Because ways of dressing are many, and my freedom as a creator corresponds to freedom of gesture”.
Gianfranco Ferré
1988
The certainty of tailoring, even in the lightest, weightless suit; in the gabardine duster; in the crêpe raincoat; in the white, pink or pale-blue shirt worn with neutral trousers and jackets.
The practicality of airy fabrics. Of reversible jackets, where a more structured interior corresponds to a more traditional exterior. Of jackets deconstructed to the point of being emptied at the shoulders. Of the English-style safari jacket, reworked and lightened.
The determination of the colonial palette in all its shades, until colour becomes abstraction, a non-colour. Strong accents such as bright red and royal blue. The pink fil-à-fil poplin jacket worn with beige. Pure cottons and linens, rejecting blends and futuristic materials.
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Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Fall/Winter
“Irony, a desire to smile in the face of the new uniforms: casual because it conveys comfort, conservatism because it projects image, creative dressing because it makes fashion. But also calculated disproportions, the romanticism of the white shirt worn without a tie under a black jacket. A way of dressing by class and profession that has become conformist, lazy. Whereas today the choice should be mature, conscious. There is no heroism in wearing a jacket; there is ease in the wide, soft shirt worn under an overcoat; there is enjoyment in mixing innovation with the classic. Almost a will towards a vaguely Napoleonic wild spirit, with raw fur linings, wolf collars”.
Gianfranco Ferré
1988
Transforming. Compact yet soft fabrics, achieved through advanced technological processes: cotton bonded to cotton and washed until the material is altered and becomes plastic. Featherweight nylon combined with wool and leather, washed at very high temperatures. Leather coated with rubber to make it rainproof and reversible.
Interpreting. Unusual tanning methods for the leather line: English shoe leather, softened and highly polished; leather like drum parchment, light and bonded to jersey.
Exaggerating. Ready-made knitwear washed and felted for sweatshirts. Oversized shaping stitches in traditional camel, cashmere and silk/cashmere knitwear.
Fixing. Jackets with reduced shoulders, a defined waist, comfortable hips. A slightly triangular form, loose and rounded thanks to the specific construction of the garment, with seams joined but not topstitched. Canonical colours: parchment and honey with touches of yellow and old gold. Blue, burgundy, dark red mixed with black and natural tones.
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