Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Spring/Summer
“I want a competitive spirit, in the sense of a challenge. Competition as the recovery of forms closer to the body, certain reinforcements at the sleeves, the typical sporting supports on the back or where the muscles are under strain. A challenge in proposing summer grey once again, white, the clear colours of banners. But always with a search for nobility, a background of classicism which for me signifies tradition. Within which, by now, there is a wavelength, a clear metric of what pleases in the collection: the blue jacket, the beige trench, the chalk stripe, the gabardine suit. What one cannot renounce, what one does not want to forget, what one needs”.
Gianfranco Ferré
1987
Again, comfort. Comfortable forms because they are not excessive. Sleeves set close. Shoulders defined but reduced, even seven or eight centimetres less. Fabrics multiplied: leather on leather, cotton on cotton, double tricot, silk on one side and napped, untwisted cotton on the other. Garments doubled with pre-washed Bemberg linings.
Again, freshness. The white cotton blazer for evening wear, over shirts whose fronts are made from the same fabric as the jacket. A leather tuxedo jacket worn over a leather polo. A silk poplin jacket matched with the shirt and cool wool trousers.
Again, colour. Combative greens and reds inspired by an old photographic album of the Olympic Games. Greys ranging from lead to swallow. White. A crushed, bruised shade of black.
An updated survey of the Ferré tradition. Airy fabrics, this time achieved through mohair or fibres worked in double or triple processing. Silk mixed with wool and cool wool. Shantung and silk poplin. Tussah. A sense of cleanliness obtained through the calendering of linens, a process that gives a glossy, dense hand.
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Prêt-à-porter Uomo
Fall/Winter
“I believe in formal dressing, in classical clothes which can – indeed must – be comfortable, but without mixing roles or confusing situations. Because city dressing has precise rules, just as leisurewear does, and responds to a code that has already been tested. Experiences can be exchanged, yes, and certain solutions transferred. The man who chooses Ferré knows that dressing is a pleasure and chooses objects that are very beautiful, very solid, made to last. I am convinced that it is obsolescence – the continual pursuit of the new that appears immediately old – which inflates the fashion world”.
Gianfranco Ferré
1987
For dressing between norm and form: the line must be decisive and the spirit severe. Each colour according to tradition: blue where blue is canonical, grey and black as habit dictates. Also ranges of indefinite colours, blended until a monochromatic effect is achieved.
The design is compact: leather reinforced with cotton linings so that it appears more substantial while remaining elastic. Quality is artisanal: camel-hair stitching supports the interior of coats. Fabrics, even the rarest, retain a familiar appearance while expressing a sophisticated spirit. Double crêpe imitates wool.
Interlock jersey resembles knitwear. Mohair is worked on the reverse like gabardine. Baby alpaca is mixed with lambswool.
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