Alta Moda
Spring/Summer
“My Roman impressions. Terraces at sunset. Wicker and colourful striped deckchairs; the pale gold of straw and the triumphant blond of corn. In the evening a light breeze blows over crinolines, over frothy point d’esprit hat veils. Tiny beads tinkle on the slim paisley dress. Silk organzas, featherlight yet full of life, take flight. There is an instinctive sensuality in the air – as if the surrounding setting enhanced the talent for seduction”.
Gianfranco Ferré
1989
In the city’s soft light, clothes become colours. Colours vibrate with a mellow, almost tactile intensity that recalls De Chirico’s neo-Greek period and his vital figures immersed in a symphony of ochre and red. Beige unfolds into shades of wheat ear, Vienna straw and wicker. Or into a woody pink with the skin of lychee.
The transparencies of lace stand out, used to line interiors or, like cameos, encrusted into featherlight, almost sheer sarongs. Lace appears again, this time in heavy cord, for long tunics worn over skirts and trousers. Brussels lace for the sarong-dress. Like a bouquet of flowers, a straw ribbon with straw flowers cinches the polkadot dress. Bayadere stripes from Tripoline chairs run along the ankle-length organza shirtwaist, or across the iridescent embroidered jacket paired with a pleated georgette skirt. Jackets trace the sinuous curves of Thonet chairs and the whorls of raffia. Even the grisaille suit takes on the delicacy of a flower, with unexpected sleeves swelling towards the hem.
EXCERPT FROM THE COLLECTION PRESS RELEASE
