Alta Moda
Spring/Summer
“A whiff of freshness, a cool, clean breeze, a light trace of flowers –perhaps memories, perhaps promises. A feeling: discretion. A behaviour: the vibrant tranquillity of gestures and movements, of words. An inner self-possession that comes from good habits practised over time. A surprising way of dressing, carrying both the thrust of the future and the knowledge of the past”.
Gianfranco Ferré
1987
Capes expand, silks billow, pleats burst forth, recalling Boucher and his enchanted visions of elegance. Volumes evoke the solemnity of tradition, yet possess an unimaginable lightness, achieved through masterly cutting and the exaltation of fabric – double shantung and gazar, ottoman and piqué.
A quiver of georgette: the long, straight skirt opens onto a pleated skirt beneath, giving the step a rhythm of dance. A predilection: blue, which the rigour of haute couture sets against the white of piqué. An emotion: the intense pink of azaleas. An illusion: confetti-like colours that seem scattered by a gust of wind – heightened by two superimposed prints that amplify the effect of tones breaking apart (a possible tribute to Divisionism).
A dynamism of forms, crossed by a sudden draft: the skirt clings at the back and swings in front, thanks to the calculated ingenuity of godet panels. A sinuous design of the body, blossoming from bustier dresses, from elemental skirts – or from exciting sculpted, low-cut jackets. In the pure tradition of Ferré.
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Alta Moda
Fall/Winter
“I fell in love with velvet and its reflections, the very ones found in nature in the pansy flower. I married it to round, exuberant shapes which, on the one hand, convey the fullness of femininity and, on the other, a streak of eccentricity. But I bound them with ribbons and set their rhythm with bows — to offer the eye the most sumptuous of bouquets”.
GIANFRANCO FERRÉ
1987
Everything blossoms, everything flutters… collars open like giant pansies in full bloom. Capes burst with bows.
Everything rounds out, everything expands… evening dresses, long or short, sway in skirts forming an almost conical wheel. New textures emerge, rooted in the typical workings of Ferré couture – quilted and matelassé faille.
Everything rounds out, everything intertwines, between illusion and allusion… ribbons chase one another around the coat, mingling with violets, vine leaves and mimosas. Colours carry the poetic sensuality and virtuosity of Honoré Fragonard: violets, lilacs and ribes; brown from tête-de-nègre through to a regal plum; white and black.
Everything wraps voluptuously, everything adorns sumptuously… ultrasoft beaver furs are lined with quilted, iridescent taffeta. Broadtail takes on the mutable life of a fabric – decorated, embroidered, inlaid. Furs transform into stoles, scarves, capes. To be thrown over a white organza shirt or a T-shirt.
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