Alta Moda
Fall/Winter
“There are those who follow the standard route, and those who — with equal rigour — subvert the terms of the question: I, in an eccentric way, after eight years of ready-to-wear that some have defined as ‘the most intellectual and sophisticated of Made in Italy,’ have arrived at haute couture. Haute couture gives me the chance to demonstrate a technical culture and a refined experimentation. Because I believe I am able to bring into haute couture certain techniques typical of ready-to-wear, without taking from the garment the handcraft and artisan quality it must possess”.
GIANFRANCO FERRÉ
1986
Unusual words for uncommon concepts: the easy grace of the straight grey jersey dress, finding warmth under the coat in double face faille and jersey – a bonded fabric that takes on new, plastic qualities. The serious demeanour of the chalkstripe walking suit in bright, dry wool: a lean silhouette, collarless, defined at the waist, yet preserving femininity. The sensual allure of the white scarf serving the ambiguous function of a sleeve, and of jersey lining the petit-gris coat. The controlled splendour of metal paillettes mimicking the irregular grain of tweed, and of tweed enriched with crystal decorations. The natural fit of two-tone faille shirtwaists, with a panel skirt snug at the back and full in front, taking shape without rigidity or structure – simply through folding and refolding the fabric. The sense of security in reaffirming Gianfranco Ferré’s signature themes: spiral motifs, the stiff half-bow, palettes ranging from grey to black and white, neutral and neutralising tones that correspond to a certain language of formality.
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