Prêt-à-porter A/I 1982-83
Look n. 1

  • Collection: Prêt-à-porter
  • Season: Autunno/Inverno
  • Year: 1982
  • Subject: Donna
  • Runway Look No.: 1
“Dumas” shirt. White crêpe de chine shirt open in front. Mannish white taffeta wing collar, complete with topstitched ribbon bow. The shirt is made from two intersecting panels, front and back, each with seven 4 cm deep pleats. Featuring eight identical pleats, the ample-armhole sleeves taper toward the bottom, where a wide, topstitched white taffeta button cuff presents a cufflink-style closure. Here, the billowy shape of the classic late-18th-century men’s shirt inspires a complex process of styling research that centers on the dual theme of deep pleats and crossover panels. Through these key elements, the original influence evolves in the direction of a keener geometric type of logic. On the runway, dueling swordsmen clearly heightened the impact of the shirt.
  • MATERIALS
    Crêpe de chine (Taroni, Como); taffeta (Clerici, Como).
    Covered buttons.
  • MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES
    Flat pleats, double register of silk topstitching.
360° Imaging: Open Care Art Advisory
Fashion show photo
Fashion show photo
Technical drawing
ph. Leonardo Salvini
Advertising, ph. Herb Ritts
Vogue Paris, august 1982, ph. Guy Bourdin
volume "Ferré", Vogue Italia, february 1993, supplement, ph. Fabrizio Ferri
Fashion show video
Digital twin design: Guto Marinho and Martino Fois
Shoulder detail
Cuff detail
Virtual fashion show

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